Fashion week roared into Milan on Wednesday with a line-up of hotly anticipated shows from fresh talent as well as luxury titans ranging from Moschino to Armani, who are battling for their share of a rebounding market.
Gucci is the first big name in line during the six days of catwalk strutting, coming in with mighty momentum under mastermind Alessandro Michele and the geek chic aesthetic he has established since taking the reins in 2015.
The Spring/Summer 2018 collection starring in its show later Wednesday is also Gucci’s first since French parent company Kering announced a pledge earlier this month to ban ultra-thin models from its brands’ advertising and runways.
Luxury group LVMH, which counts heavyweight Fendi among its labels, has signed on as well to the ban that comes after repeated scandals in the fashion industry about anorexia and the mistreatment of models.
Milan kicked off with shows from smaller up-and-comers, including Japanese designer Atsushi Nakashima, who unveiled bright colours, space-agey silver ponchos and clothing bisected with lots of shiny zips.
For Nakashima the zips are a reminder of humanity’s better impulses in an uncertain time that has seen North Korea fire missiles directly over his homeland.
“This is the reason for the collection… putting together, understanding each other to have more communication,” he told reporters through a translator. “We can connect with each other.”
Expectations are building for British talent Paul Surridge, who will on Friday show off his maiden collection since being named creative director in May of Roberto Cavalli, known for its sexy rock’n’roll attitude.
Husband-and-wife team Luke and Lucie Meier are presenting their first designs on Saturday since being tapped in April as creative leads of minimalist stalwart Jil Sander.
The Meiers, a rare married duo of co-directors, come from Dior for her and Paris-based menswear brand OAMC via iconic streetwear label Supreme for him.